Growing up, I was never much of a history buff. But somehow I feel compelled on this trip to soak up as much as I can about the culture and the essence of each place we visit. It is undeniable that a country’s culture is shaped by its history. And as it turns out, Polish history is pretty fascinating.
Poland’s past is unique from other European countries in that it ceased to exist between 1795 and 1918, and then again during WWII. The place that retained the kernel of Polish culture during that time was the city of Kraków. During the week we stayed in Kraków we observed the true pervasiveness of Polish history in every nook and cranny of the city.
One of the biggest markers of history in the city is Wawel Castle. First built in the 1300s, the castle was the home of Polish monarchs for centuries. It has been renovated and expanded many times but the roots of Wawel have stayed, and the many renovations just add to the amount of history visible in one place.
Kraków was also an important city during the Nazi invasion in WWII. Poland was one of the first countries invaded, and thus a lot of Nazi policies of expansion and oppression were first tested out in major cities such as Warsaw and Kraków. A General Government was established as an extension of the German government in Poland, and Governor General Hanz Frank then moved into Wawel Castle to mastermind the oppression of the Polish and Jewish people. We learned a lot about this at the museum in the old metalworks factory of Oskar Schindler, a Holocaust hero known for safeguarding Jews by giving them work in his building.
One of the most impactful experiences of our trip was visiting the nearby concentration camp of Auschwitz-Birkenau. Just an hour outside of the city, the camp stands eerily intact as a reminder of the horrors and atrocities enacted during Nazi rule. As if the concept of concentration camps isn’t bad enough, learning about the gruesome details and the degree to which the Nazis went to truly dehumanize and degrade hundreds of thousands of humans is almost inconceivable. The structures built for the sole purpose of torture and extermination are a harrowing reminder that what happened there was no accident. It was heavy stuff. Still, we felt a sense of obligation that we should be intentional in remembering that it was all real and doesn’t just exist as a story in historical books or movies.
(If you’re interested in learning a bit more, or seeing what the inside of Auschwitz is like today, take a look at my photo story.)
Back in Krakow,our base of exploration was outside of the central Old Town area in a more residential neighborhood. Our host was incredibly welcoming, providing us with more tips for local restaurants and worthwhile sights than we could take in. The apartment was clean, pink, and above all, very small.
From there we spent hours ambling around the city, getting lost, and checking out any interesting building or bakery (Ryan’s prime directive is to eat fresh-baked goodies) we came by. I became slightly obsessed with walking into every church we saw. I marveled at how there could be an ornate building, decorated with statues and gold accents, on one side of the street, while a plain, stone church with a simple square bell tower sat on the other side. And yet, they were somehow equally purposeful and interesting.
Anyways, I have tried to be a sponge, eyes wide open and ears pricked, reminding myself daily how unusual this experience is. It helps to keep myself from becoming numb to all the captivating things that surround daily life while traveling. I am reminded of the quote by Dagobert D Runes:
“People travel to faraway places to watch, in fascination, the kind of people they ignore at home.”
It turns out, life becomes more interesting and beautiful when we feel as though we’re somewhere strange and new (and it just happens to help if we actually are).
All My Socks Are Dirty 